Charlestown, a neighborhood of Boston across the Charles River from the North End, is replete with visual and historical contrasts. Like the river at whose mouth it sits, Charlestown was named after King Charles who had given the colony its royal charter. Gas lamps still light the night along narrow streets lined with brick town homes. Modern strip malls and unfortunate examples of seventies’ concrete-façade architecture, such as the public library, coexist with historic commons and monuments. The U.S.S. Constitution and Bunker Hill monument testify of old Yankee-stock American pride, but in some city parks the Irish flag flies alongside the stars and stripes, an enduring witness of the Irish community’s lingering influence. Nonetheless, a Saturday morning visit to a Charlestown coffee shop reveals one of Boston’s most diverse neighborhoods, as Spanish and Haitian Creole conversations occur alongside English, and young professionals with trendy strollers mingle with lifelong residents and new immigrants.
Colonization
Charlestown was first settled in 1629, by an advance party of Puritans to prepare for the “Great Migration” in 1630.[1] Jutting out at the mouth of the largest river in Boston Harbor, with rounded hills and sloping lowlands, the area known as Mishawum, “full of stately timber and hospitable Indians,”[2] become one of the now–United States’ earliest European settlements. Long a quiet country neighbor to its more prominent neighbor south of the River, the local history of Charlestown—from Colonial farmland, to Revolutionary battlefield, to War of 1812 naval port, nineteenth-century center of immigration and industrialization, to its identity today as a diverse urban neighborhood—is a case study in, and microcosm of, the American experience.
The initial European settlement of Charlestown was a false start. Eager to prepare for swarms of settlers, the 1629 settlers “erected a fort and laid out streets in preparation.”[3] Ready for the new residents, Charles Bahne argues the colony’s leaders made a “crucial mistake:”[4]
The hundreds of Puritans who landed in “Charles Towne” during a midsummer heat wave found the wells nearly dry and much of the available water brackish. . . Most of the settlers soon crossed the river to Shawmut and its plentiful springs. Charlestown was essentially a sleepy country town until the Revolution.[5]
Yet the sleepy town did not die. Its most notable resident, Massachusetts Governor John Winthrop, moved across the river, but his Great House, later the Three Cranes tavern stood from 1630 until the British burned Charlestown in 1775. Today the foundation stones are visible in City Square Park.
The community continued to grow, although much more slowly than Boston proper on the Shawmut peninsula. In 1632, the residents joined together and established a church, effectively creating a community out of the dispersed country side. With these words a church and neighborhood emerged:
In the Name of our Lord God, and in obedience to his holy will and divine ordinances. We whose names are here written being by his most wise and good providence brought together, and desirous to unite ourselves into one congregation or church, under our Lord Jesus Christ our Head . . . promise to bind ourselves to walk in all our ways according the rules of the Gospel . . . in mutual love and respect each to other: so near as God shall give us Grace.[6]
The founding covenant of the First Church in Charlestown is a glimpse into Puritan community life. The austerity of the membership’s “promise to bind ourselves to walk in all our ways according to the rules of the Gospel” is tempered by a commitment to live “in mutual love and respect each to other.”[7]
The nineteenth century local historian Richard Frothingham, Jr., revered his town’s founders as “men of moderate fortunes and high character.”[8] Perhaps it was in this spirit that a young minister from Charlestown, John Harvard, made his 1638 dying bequest of half his wealth to the college established in 1636 in Newtowne, now Cambridge, gave Harvard its name, and much of its land. New England communities eventually had to emerge as self-sustaining and self-perpetuating, no longer in utter reliance on Britain for its residents or their educations. Thomas Shepard—the middle of three generations of his name—became Charlestown’s first New England–born and educated minister.[9] Shepard’s ordination was attended by the Revs. Zechariah Symmes, the retiring Charlestown pastor; John Wilson of Boston; and Richard Mather of Dorchester on February 13, 1659.[10] Only thirty years after the advance party scouted out Charlestown, its church was being led by a New Englander trained for the ministry at a local college.
Revolution
The moment in Charlestown history for which it is most well-known is the confusingly named Battle of Bunker Hill, which took place atop Breed’s Hill. (“A last minute change in plans,” explains Charles Bahne, “causes confusion even today about the battle’s name.”[11]) Pure topography destined Charlestown for this battle. The hills of Charlestown and Dorchester Heights to the south each served as gates into the harbor, and their strategic importance was not lost on Gage, the British general.[12] Continental soldiers could easily access Charlestown by land, and overnight on June 16, about one thousand soldiers entered and fortified Breed’s Hill. Having seen the fortifications spring up overnight, the British regulars set about planning an attack. Cocky and self-assured, they prepared for a three-day campaign in which Charlestown was assumed to be the first of many ready victories. This arrogance caused the British to be overdressed and over-burdened for their assault.[13]
The historian Allen French, observed said, “The story of Bunker Hill battle is a tale of great blunders heroically redeemed. Each side committed unexplainable, inexcusable error in strategy; and each side paid in blood according to the magnitude of its mistake.”[14] The British were arrogant and the American were ill-prepared, ultimately running out of gun powder.[15] The casualties on both sides were severe. Half of the British troops were killed; one third of the Americans.[16] At the end of the day, the British took the hill, but New Englanders, too, claimed a victory. “The engagement demonstrated that the British army was not invincible after all and that an aroused citizenry was capable of resisting trained professional soldiers in red coats.” The triumph came not because “New Englanders had won, but because they had survived.”[17] Nathaniel Green lamented, “I wish I could sell [the British] another hill at the same price.”[18]
Yet it was not only the British who paid that price. The residents of Charlestown themselves paid a dear price and may have been less prone to such fervent patriotic bluster. In addition to the human lives lost, the town itself was a casualty. “One event that seems to have shocked the partisans on both sides almost as much as the battle itself was the burning of Charlestown,”[19] which took place in the late afternoon, hours into battle. A “wanton act,”[20] it turned Charlestown to ashes; destroyed nearly four hundred homes; and wiped away nearly two centuries of history, destroying both architecture and literary records. The Mather family library, including the letters of four generations of this prominent New England family was destroyed. John Adams lamented its loss as “irreparable.”[21]
After the Revolution, Charlestown began to grow from a sleepy countryside to a bustling suburb. The most important development in changing Charlestown’s role was the construction of the Charles River Bridge, a private-financed project, completed in 1786, and at 1503-feet long “claimed to be the longest bridge in the world.”[22]
Recovery and Reconstruction in the New Republic
The destruction of the town also facilitated a fresh start in its urban planning. Charlestown’s most charming districts today, especially near the Common and the south portion of Main Street, reflect its late eighteen-century flavor. A critical source of employment to spur investment and growth, along with the new bridge, was the fledgling United States Navy’s decision to purchase sixty-five acres of waterfront in 1800 at Moulton’s Point.[23] The construction and employment it provided for both civilians and sailors lasted for 174 years until its decommissioning in 1974, and since 1797 Charlestown has been the home port of the storied U.S.S. Constitution. The most symbolic growth, and most dramatic change to skyline, came with the construction of the Bunker Hill monument, constructed from 1825-1843 and ultimately rising to 221-feet high of Quincy granite, the tallest building in America until the Washington Monument’s completion in forty-years[24]
The connection to Boston via bridge and the thriving Navy Yard changed the demographics with the landscape. For nearly two-hundred years, from 1829 until 1817, Charlestown was dominated by English-descended Congregationalists. The Unitarian controversy made belated inroads in Charlestown. The Unitarian congregation finally built a church, Harvard Unitarian Church, at the site of the modern Boston Public Library branch, 1817.[25] Theological differences as profound as they were, the Unitarians also tended to represent the same upper-middle class and upper-class English heritage as the Congregationalist at First Church in Charlestown.
Immigration and Diversity
In the 1820s, the scene continued to change. In 1829, Saint Mary’s became Charlestown’s first Roman Catholic parish,[26] first made up of French and then Irish immigrants. The churches of the early-nineteenth were more likely to be places where ethnicities and classes joined with like kind than to be places where people broke down barriers. The Catholic Church engendered particular suspicion. On August eleventh and twelfth, a gang of fifty to sixty disguised men,[27] fueled by rumors of lurid secret abuses in the convent and its school, and as some scholars such as Oscar Handlin theorize, mostly out of fear of competition for jobs from the Irish,[28] destroyed the Ursuline Convent in Charlestown. The Boston Evening Transcript reported:
The work of destruction accomplished by a mob, last night and this morning, at and about the Ursuline Convent, on Mount Benedict, in Charlestown—resulting in the complete sacking of the principal building itself—a four-story handsome brick edifice, with wings, and front about eighty feet—together with the farm house, cottage, and every other building upon the premises, and also with the demolition or consumption by fire of all the furniture and chattels of every description, appurtant to the whole.[29]
The tragedy of the event and the bigotry it displayed, however, likely did not represent majority sentiment, though certainly the bigotry of a violent minority was clearly on display. The Transcript, for example, editorialized, “We agree . . . in the utter condemnation of the outrage.”[30]
The Convent fire in time proved to be an isolated aberration and the Irish community of Charlestown grew and the entire community began to thrive. In the 1840s, Charlestown resident and future Mayor Richard Frothingham, Jr., was eager to describe his home as “a prosperous community” with “handsome streets and creditable public buildings.”[31] Money and appearances were not the community’s sole traits, though. Charitable enterprises grew and the community could claim to be one which “makes ample provision for its poor.”[32] A notable example of Charlestown’s provisions for its power was the establishment of the Winchester Home for Aged Women in 1865, a charitable nursing home especially for the community’s widows. [33]
Industrialization
Charlestown prided itself as a leader in the “commercial enterprise of the day” and very much was in a period of “rapidly increasing its population, wealth, and consequence.”[34] In industry this manifested itself in Charlestown’s role in innovation and manufacture. Rufus Stickney and John R. Poor opened a spice grinding factory in 1850 that grew into the world’s largest manufacturer of table and cooking spices.[35] Diamond Matches, a company led by Ezekiel Byam was the “pioneer of match manufacturers,”[36] having perfected the technology of friction-strike matches and developed the process to manufacture them cheaply. H.P. Hood, an innovator in milk commercial pasteurization set up his Massachusetts business in Charlestown where the company’s research and development still is centered.[37]
Charlestown’s rapid growth affected its governmental history, too. From rolling pastures to an emerging city, Charlestown was incorporated as a city in 1847. So rapid was its growth, and the growth of its neighbor, Boston, that it was annexed into Boston by 1874.[38] Since its annexation, Charlestown’s role in greater Boston has often remained vague. Legally it is Boston, but separated by the Charles River, it retains a distinct character, and unlike most other Boston neighborhoods has a very clear natural boundary.
The Modern Era
One of its greatest twentieth-century challenges has been balancing old with new, of cherishing its traditions and heritage while being truly modern and open. With its age, buildings and districts ebb and flow; the line between historic and blighted has often been unclear. Eras of poverty and gentrification alternate as Charlestown has to adapt its history to its future. The early 1970s presented Charlestown with one of its biggest such challenges. In 1974, Richard Nixon ordered the Navy Yard closed.[39] One-hundred thirty acres of industry disappeared overnight, but now the formerly strong manufacturing district has emerged as a center for research and high technology. Also in the 1970s, Bunker Hill Community College was established, making postsecondary education available in the neighborhood of John Harvard himself for the first time. As buildings age and industries come and go, Charlestown constantly must adapt. Historically, to its credit, it consistently has. The pattern continues endlessly. The 1848 high school became luxury condos in 1995. [40] Keeping the neighborhood prosperous, while never losing sight of the Charlestown that made provisions for its poor, is the ongoing challenge.
From the history of a neighborhood where a single Congregationalist parish was the only church for nearly two hundred years, where the king’s forces advanced upon sons of liberty, where rioting mobs burned a convent in nativist furor, where a new town quickly was swallowed up into a sprawling city, our modern Charlestown emerged. It is an example of the mix of old and new its architecture and its diversity. A century and a half ago, Charlestown historian, and later mayor, Richard Frothingham, Jr., astutely noted:
A town history must necessarily consist mainly of local details, small in themselves, and chiefly interesting to the descendents of the actors of them, or those who occupy their places. Yet this detail, these little things, if judiciously selected, ‘illustrate classes of men and ages of time,’ and as they show the feelings, opinions, and action of a period, constitute its life. . . A history of one will illustrate the history of all. [41]
Indeed the lessons of Charlestown in its journey from seventeenth-century countryside to twenty-first century urban renewal are applicable beyond its boundaries. Today Charlestown is in the midst of a delicate balancing act. Irish flags, once a symbol of the new and persecuted immigrants, line streets and flutter in city parks along the stars and stripes and now symbolized the old money and power. New waves of immigrants, particularly central American and Haitian, are reshaping the demographics. Charlestown has a double identity of a small enclave and part of a major city, and is subject to both small-town politics and major urban challenges. Balancing its working-class heritage and its recent gentrification may be its greatest new challenge. If it is successful, it promises to continue to be one of Boston’s most eclectic and charming neighborhoods. In its brief life as independent city, Charlestown’s city seal proclaimed as its motto, “Liberty—A Trust to Be Transmitted to Posterity.” [42] Charlestown has a rich history to transmit, and fortunately, a rich history of keeping its heritage alive while keeping its posterity full of promise.
[1] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 62.
[2] Frothingham, Richard, Jr. The History of Charlestown, Massachusetts. Boston: Charles C. Little and James Brown, 1845. p. 4.
[3] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 62.
[4] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 62.
[5] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 62.
[6] Records of the First Church in Charlestown, Massachusetts, 1632-1789. Boston: David Clapp and Son, 1880. p. 1. (Spelling modernizations my own.)
[7] Records of the First Church in Charlestown, Massachusetts, 1632-1789. Boston: David Clapp and Son, 1880. p. 1. (Spelling modernizations my own.)
[8] Frothingham, Richard, Jr. The History of Charlestown, Massachusetts. Boston: Charles C. Little and James Brown, 1845. p. 4.
[9] A plaque in the foyer of the First Church in Charlestown lists the hometowns and alma maters of each of its seventeenth-century ministers.
[10] Records of the First Church in Charlestown, Massachusetts, 1632-1789. Boston: David Clapp and Son, 1880. p. 11.
[11] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 73.
[12] Ketchum, Richard M., The Battle for Bunker Hill. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1962. p. 59.
[13] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. pp. 73-74.
[14] French, Allen quoted in Ketchum, Richard M., The Battle for Bunker Hill. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1962. p. ii.
[15] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. pp. 73-74.
[16] Ketchum, Richard M. Decisive Day: The Battle for Bunker Hill. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1974. p. xiii.
[17] Ketchum, Richard M. Decisive Day: The Battle for Bunker Hill. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1974. p. xv.
[18] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 75.
[19] Ketchum, Richard M. Decisive Day: The Battle for Bunker Hill. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1974. p. 199.
[20] Ketchum, Richard M. Decisive Day: The Battle for Bunker Hill. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1974. p. 199.
[21] Adams, John quoted in Ketchum, Richard M. Decisive Day: The Battle for Bunker Hill. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1974. p. 199.
[22] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 62.
[23] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 67.
[24] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. pp. 75-76.
[25] Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell. Charlestown. Images of America Series. Dover, NH: Arcadia, 1996. p. 25.
[26] Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell. Charlestown. Images of America Series. Dover, NH: Arcadia, 1996. p. 28.
[27] “Burning of the Charlestown Convent,” Boston Evening Transcript, 12 August, 1834. Available online at <http://www.yale.edu/glc/archive/949.htm>. Cited May 4, 2009.
[28] Handlin, Oscar. Boston’s Immigrants: 1790-1880; A study in acculturation. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1991. p. 187.
[29] “Burning of the Charlestown Convent,” Boston Evening Transcript, 12 August, 1834. Available online at <http://www.yale.edu/glc/archive/949.htm>. Cited May 4, 2009.
[30] “Burning of the Charlestown Convent,” Boston Evening Transcript, 12 August, 1834. Available online at <http://www.yale.edu/glc/archive/949.htm>. Cited May 4, 2009.
[31] Frothingham, Richard, Jr. The History of Charlestown, Massachusetts. Boston: Charles C. Little and James Brown, 1845. p. 4.
[32] Frothingham, Richard, Jr. The History of Charlestown, Massachusetts. Boston: Charles C. Little and James Brown, 1845. p. 4.
[33] Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell. Charlestown. Images of America Series. Dover, NH: Arcadia, 1996. p. 46.
[34] Frothingham, Richard, Jr. The History of Charlestown, Massachusetts. Boston: Charles C. Little and James Brown, 1845. p. 4.
[35] Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell. Charlestown. Images of America Series. Dover, NH: Arcadia, 1996. p. 121.
[36] Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell. Charlestown. Images of America Series. Dover, NH: Arcadia, 1996. p. 122.
[37] H.P. Hood, Inc. Online at <http://www.hphood.com>. Cited May 4, 2009.
[38] Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell. Charlestown. Images of America Series. Dover, NH: Arcadia, 1996. p. 10.
[39] Bahne, Charles. The Complete Guide to Boston’s Freedom Trail. Third Edition. Cambridge, MA: Newtowne Publishing, 2005. p. 68.
[40] Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell. Charlestown. Images of America Series. Dover, NH: Arcadia, 1996. p. 40.
[41] Frothingham, Richard, Jr. The History of Charlestown, Massachusetts. Boston: Charles C. Little and James Brown, 1845. p. 4.
[42] Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell. Charlestown. Images of America Series. Dover, NH: Arcadia, 1996. p. 10.